有互联网思维的拉夫·劳伦运动衫 纽约时报

  有互联网思维的拉夫·劳伦运动衫 纽约时报

  Is the Player Nervous? Just Ask His Shirt


TENNIS HAS an emotional impact that isn’t confined to the court. Consider the ball boy, who speeds the game along by retrieving stray balls for the players.


  “It’s fascinating to see this guy at the peak of his youth and his health, to watch the stress that he’s under when Roger Federer is handing him a ball,” David Lauren said last week, just days before the United States Open, which starts on Monday.

  “这个球童正当青春,正是最健康的时候,你看罗杰·费德勒(Roger Federer)递给他球时,他感到有压力了,这真有趣,”大卫·劳伦(David Lauren)上周说。当时离周一(8月25日——译注)开幕的美国网球公开赛只有几天时间。

  “You can actually see his heart rate spike,” said Mr. Lauren, who has monitored those activities remotely. “You can see his breathing.”


  Mr. Lauren, the executive vice president for advertising, marketing and corporate communications for the Ralph Lauren company and a son of the designer, isn’t cyberspying, nor is he tricked out with some newfangled sensor providing access to his subject’s inner workings. It’s the ball boy who will, in a manner of speaking, be wired.


  Come Monday, ball boys at the Open will be trying out, in full view of fans around the globe, the sexy nylon T-shirt that marks Ralph Lauren’s entry into the rapidly advancing world of wearable technology.


  “Everyone is exploring wearable tech watches and headbands and looking at cool sneakers,” Mr. Lauren said. “We skipped to what we thought was new, which is apparel. We live in our clothes.”



  What spectators will see this week is a slick, form-fitting black athletic shirt, the Ralph Lauren polo pony emblazoned on the front. What they won’t see is the conductive silver-coated thread that is woven discreetly into the fiber, one that, according to the company, makes that shirt the first item of tech apparel to be introduced by a mainstream fashion label.


  No, the shirt won’t answer your smartphone, fire your ignition or get you a date. What it will do, among its varied functions, is monitor your heart rate, breathing and stress levels, collecting data that is displayed on a dashboard, phone app or computer screen — all that without compromising its racy good looks.


  “We want to control the technology and make it applicable to our life in a way that is refined and comfortable,” Mr. Lauren said.


  That is, no distracting hardware, not a disk, wire or tube in sight.


  “Nothing clunky that you have to strap on,” he said. “You’re just putting on a shirt.”


  One, he might have added, that flaunts the sort of streamlined aesthetic that has been mostly missing from the marketplace.


  Rachel Arthur, a global senior editor at WGSN, a trend forecasting firm, said, “No one has produced a wearable that is 100 percent bang-on in terms of what mass consumers will want.”

  雷切尔·亚瑟(Rachel Arthur)是潮流预测公司WGSN的全球高级编辑。她说,“从大众消费者想要的角度讲,还没有人生产出百分百合适的可穿戴产品。”

  Fashion, she maintained, has yet to attractively fuse with technology.


  “We all know this is the future, but in terms of beautiful design, it’s not there yet,” she said. “It has to be something we want to use.”


  Geek-friendly but stylish, in short.


  Robert Scoble, a blogger and champion of technological progress, said: “The things that are on your skin need to feel empathetic and beautiful. They need to be nice to the touch and not hang on your clothes.”

  罗伯特·斯考伯(Robert Scoble)是一位博主,也是技术进步的拥护者。他说:“你皮肤上的东西需要能够感受你,同时又很漂亮。它们得摸起来舒服,不能挂在你的衣服上。”

  It’s a mandate that Team Lauren plans to address, integrating technology into everyday wear. In the first half of next year it will introduce, alongside the athletic shirts, tech-enhanced classic dress shirts at Ralph Lauren stores. The shirts, which have yet to be priced, will represent a portion of a projected multibillion-dollar business that will include tech products as well as new collections of contemporary streetwear.


  In a sense, the company explored the tech concept years ago. Back in the mid-’90s, the Ralph Lauren company, which for some years has been a sponsor of the United States Olympic team, the Open and Wimbledon, introduced carbon-fiber jeans and ski jackets with MP3 players threaded into the sleeves.


  At the time, those jackets met with a lukewarm reception, Mr. Lauren acknowledged.


  “Not everyone knew how to use MP3 players,” he said.


  He is confident, though, that wearable tech is only now hitting its stride. He went on to predict that the tech-infused shirts, produced in collaboration with OM, a Canadian company known for so-called biometric smartwear, would be a game-changer. And an image transformer to boot.


  “So many people think of Ralph Lauren as a preppy New England brand, but we love playing with the stereotype,” he said. “We’re not all mahogany and vintage chandeliers.”